The advantage of using tall shafts is that the plants grow quickly on them, especially in early spring. In addition, working on a "raised" garden is much easier than in a classic garden on the ground, over which you have to constantly bend.
To lay a high beam, use materials that are fed to the basic structure of the garden. For starters, many opt for a rectangular shape, but you don’t have to stick with that shape. It is important that the width of the beam is such that it can be easily machined. If you will be able to access the shaft and machine it from all sides, make it about 150 centimeters wide, and if it is accessible from only one side, about 75 centimeters.
• The floor on which you will build a high beam must be flat. • If the walls of the frame will be made of wood or brick, then line the inside walls of the beam with wart foil before filling them with branches, leaves and earth. • After making the frame, attach a galvanized net to the bottom to protect against voles. • Then pour a 25 cm layer of wood waste (cut logs, branches) into the beam. • Followed by a layer of foliage, about 20-25 centimeters thick. • You can place torn pieces of cardboard on the leaves. • Followed by a layer of garden soil, and finally fill the pot with 25 to 30 inches of quality humus soil and compost. Plant plants in it. Leave about five to seven inches of free edge above so that water does not flow over the edge during watering.
Fewer snails and no voles
Properly made high beams have plenty of airy, quality soil on top that retains moisture well. High beams do not need digging; just think how often this is needed in a classic garden that can be severely knocked down by the rain and dried out by the sun. When the soil in the high shaft collapses, we just pour new soil or compost, and in a few years we restore everything together. If the soil in the high shaft collapses by more than 15 inches, organic materials such as branches, leaves, and plant debris from gardening can be added to it again, and soil or compost can be added to the top.
Because the high beam is surrounded by solid material - usually wooden beams, but may consist of bricks, concrete bricks - which is a height barrier, there are significantly fewer snails on such a beam than on the beams that are on the ground. The galvanized mesh, which must be attached to the bottom when designing a high beam, ensures peace from voles and moles.
Advantages of a high beam
• Rapid plant growth. • The airiness of the soil (it is not compacted, as is often the case in a normal garden). • No moisture stagnation. • The spine suffers less. • We don’t need a lot of tools, just rakes and scissors. • There are fewer snails and no voles because there is a net below. • Safe from dogs. • It can be suitable for terraces and balconies. • If you place the seedlings in greenhouses in multi-plates or pots, they will be warm there and will be ready for transplanting sooner. • By placing the greenhouse and filling it with branches, clean the area around the branches and leaves.
• Over time, the high beam settles, so compost must be added to it, and the structure restored or a new one installed in a few years. • Significant sensitivity to drought, which makes it necessary to mulch and water regularly, especially on hot days. In the hot part of the day, you can connect a fleece cover over the arches over the go, which will provide shading. • Its layout requires work.
Also for slopes
The hilly terrain on which the classic vegetable garden is based is steep and demanding. Whenever there is a heavy downpour, the water carries the fertile land down the bank. The high beam, however, prevents the wind and water from taking away valuable soil. It is a good idea to adjust the height of the high beam to your spine when placing it, and the length of the beam to your hands so that you can easily reach it from at least two ends.
Thank you for reading my article.
Haha I remembered when I made my first raised garden bed. I grew many vegetables, but it's when I learnt I am a brown thumb gardener. 😆😆😪😪