People proudly carry on the tradition from generation to generation. And when it comes to food that satisfies the taste, it is normal for people to have extra curiosity. The hospitable people of Chittagong are quite successful in spreading the culture of the host. Beyond the borders of the country it is now admired worldwide.
The word 'host' is Persian. It means inviter. In the regional language it is called 'Mezzan'. The host is a ceremony, the meal is just part of it. Rich-poor, young-old-merchant's wonderful combination took place in this fair. It is known that the introduction of mezban in Chittagong started in the 18th century. This tradition has found a place in the literature of poets and writers as well as in many local rhymes and poems. Prominent rhymer Sukumar Barua writes-
O brother of the country, there is no limit to happiness.
Jaldi aiyu sajiguji, mezzan khaibar lai.
The chefs are busy cooking;
They are hosted as part of various ceremonies. Akika, circumcision in circumcision, kulkhani, weddings, birthdays, death anniversaries starting from Challisha - meaning there is no end to the occasion. Success in business, moving into a new house, even the nose and ears of the girls are given to the host. Political leaders also organize it on a large scale to gain popularity or to keep the morale of party workers and supporters strong. Chittagong hosts events throughout the year. The people of this region again believe in the culture of Mazar. Therefore, in the winter season, on the occasion of Oras Sharif, Milad Mahfil of different shrines, this public feast is more.
The fun of hosting is not so much fun, but more fun than organizing and cooking. As is customary, the organizers sit down the night before to entertain guests and discuss the overall management of the host, sharing responsibilities among themselves. In the local language it is called 'Ag Dawaat' or 'Agdaati'. In other regions it is called 'Pan Salat'. A couple of village matabbars also joined it.
Usually the meat is prepared by slaughtering cows on the day before the host and the work of masala butter is done. As the host's day progresses, so does the cooking. Rows and rows of copper trays under a huge canopy, holding 70/80 kg of meat in each tray. The heat of the smoke and fire closes the eyes. However, when the meat is cooked, the fragrance spreads throughout the mahalla. When the dishes were cooked one by one, the two pressed the 'deck-bar' and brought down a huge stove from the stove. The food is kept with burning embers on the lid to keep it warm. The chefs and their attendants work from the meat quota to the farewell of the guests, not getting any rest.
According to the custom, the lord conducts prayers before the reception. Then the guests started eating and drinking. Thus the entertainment lasted from noon to afternoon. A festive atmosphere prevailed in the fair with the participation of invited guests. Cooking on wood stoves and charcoal is very tasty so people can eat it with satisfaction. After a long time, many people met. Besides eating and drinking, they chat and gossip with each other. It is also a good opportunity to keep the relationship intact.
Host of Chittagong Association at Mohammadpur Physical Education College Grounds;
Many places host such a large range that 'Unlimited guests and unlimited food'. Eating and drinking non-stop, one batch is rising and another batch is sitting. The organizers also do their best so that no one goes back unsatisfied. Don't skimp on incidental expenses starting from buying cows. People go to eat with neighbors, friends. Moy-murabi, Morals are not left out either. The children of the area also appeared with the team. The beauty of the host is that there is no class division.
Earlier, if there was a host in one village, the news would have spread in the surrounding villages. People were informed by beating drums and blowing funnels, and they would come and eat as they pleased. In the open field, the organizers used to entertain by spreading bamboo or bash. Meals were served in earthen jars.
Now, of course, the era has changed. The type of host has changed. Due to the scarcity of open space, it is now held at the city's community center. Cards are distributed or invitations are given on mobile. It goes without saying that there is no circulation of soil sanki. The touch of sincerity of the people of the village can no longer be found in the service of the decorators.
Guests waiting in front of the food, watering their tongues;
The question may arise, so far I have learned about the host's entejam and cooking process. The food menu was left out. Even if you don't have polao or biryani, it is a delicacy mixed with meat and rice. In addition to white rice, there are 3 items of beef in the host ceremonies. They are-
1. Meat of the host: Meat in the main item of the host is more salty than the other two terms. It is different from traditionally cooked meat because it is given special spices.
2. Chickpeas: Chickpeas are cooked with beef fat, pumpkin or sweet pumpkin.
3. Nala Haji: Nehari says exactly what we know, beef broth.
‘Akhni’ is served again somewhere extra. Akhni is a combination of rice and meat with light spices. Somewhat like biryani.
The host sets a unique example of communal harmony. Khasi arrangements are made to entertain guests of different religions and non-beef eaters. In the past, Chittagong used to host fish instead of cattle as there were some areas inhabited by Hindus.
Yummy kalabhuna;
Basically the taste of the food depends on the hand of the cook. Chatgaiya chefs are very skilled in cooking mezbani and have maintained this tradition for generations. Some even go abroad and cook mezbani.
Although the host originated in Chittagong, it is no longer limited to Chittagong. This feast was spread in different parts of the country under the name of 'Jeyafat'. Every year on 15th August, the National Mourning Day, the host is arranged at Tungipara in Gopalganj. The Chittagong Samiti in Dhaka also hosts a banquet every year. Originally under the supervision of National Professor Nurul Islam, a large-scale host was held in Dhaka in 1978 at the Dhaka College ground. Later, it was heard that the event was organized at the hostel ground of Sangsad Bhaban and also at the ground of Mohammadpur Physical Education College.
Not only in Bangladesh, but also in the Middle East, Europe and America across the country, the expatriates of Chittagong have been strengthening mutual relations as well as preserving the tradition of hosting at the gate together.
Chana dal or boot dal;
Due to the special attraction of the host food, almost every restaurant in Chittagong has this food on the menu. Notable among these is Jamal Khan's 'Mezzan Haile Aiyun' restaurant. This name means, if the host wants to eat, come. A number of restaurants have also sprung up in Dhaka city, serving catered food in different packages. Anyone who wants to taste the hospitality can come back.
So, reader, let's go to Mezjan Haile!
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