MORNING
Let’s start at the very beginning. The Tower of London (St Katharine's & Wapping; 020 3166 6000) takes you back to the London of William the Conqueror – it was around 1078 when he began work on a great stone palace with walls 15 feet thick. You can learn about the history, in a very entertaining way, from the Yeoman Warders (more commonly known as Beefeaters) who run tours, as well as still living within the walls of the castle. Yes, you will hear about torture, death and punishment but you can also view the British Crown Jewels and eat ice cream.
Once inside the fortress walls, it’s not what you would necessarily expect – a gentile mini-village in the heart of the City that’s perfect for a wander – with its own pub, village green, church and doctor. We recommend getting to the Tower for opening time and staying for a few hours, taking you to lunch. Note that if you get there ahead of the 9am opening time you may be ushered in early.
The Tower of London takes you back to the London of William the Conqueror CREDIT: TETRA IMAGES
AFTERNOON
Exit the tower via the middle moat (or Traitor’s Gate, as it was affectionately known) and walk a short distance, riverside, to take in the stunning view of Tower Bridge (Tower Bridge Road; 020 7403 3761), before heading up the steps to walk over it.
Now for lunch. You have two options. The first is to keep walking down Tower Bridge Road (for approximately 15 minutes) to get pie and mash – and jellied eels if you’re feeling brave – from M. Manze (87 Tower Bridge Road; 020 7407 2985), the oldest (and resplendently tiled) pie and mash shop in London – serving since 1902.
Alternatively, you can grab food on the go at either (or both) Maltby Street and Borough Markets (8 Southwark Street; 020 7407 1002). Maltby is Borough’s grungier little sister and all about the latest street food in ramshackle pop-up spaces – go for toasties at The Cheese Truck, doughnuts from St John and gin from Little Bird. Borough is an institution and an absolute must-visit (even if you're just walking through) as it’s a real hub for diverse London. Note that Borough Market is open every day except Sunday; Maltby Street is open on Saturdays and Sundays.
Maltby Street Market is all about the latest street food CREDIT: TJS11/TJS11
LATE
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For dinner, you have options aplenty in and around Borough such as Elliot’s Café (12 Stoney Street; 020 7403 7436), a modern local institution with locally sourced fish and meat dishes, or Roast (The Floral Hall, Stoney Street; 020 3006 6111), for spectacular roasts up in the roof of the market.
Tate Modern houses an impressive collection of British and international contemporary art dating from 1900 to the present. CREDIT: MIKE KEMP
You are now in the same post code as Tate Modern gallery (Bankside; 020 7887 8888). Sitting on the river face to face with St Paul’s, the former power station has somehow, magically, held onto the special buzz that accompanied its arrival in 2000. Take advantage of the late opening hours (until 10pm on Fridays and Saturdays) and getting a culture fix with the advantage of it not being as busy. Plus, you get the twinkly riverside walk at night taking in The Globe Theatre, too (21 New Globe Walk; 020 7902 1400).
If you’re still going, head for a botanical cocktail at fancy bar (20 Upper Ground; 020 3747 1063), bang on the river.
