Shetland: Geology, Walking, Cycling, Golf

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2 years ago

GEOLOGY

Shetland’s rocks span more than half of the Earth’s 4.5 billion year history. They tell amazing stories of oceans opening and closing, of mountain building and erosion, of ice ages and tropical seas, of volcanoes, deserts and ancient rivers, of land use, climate change and sea level rise.

The islands were once part of North America, where the oldest rock, a 2.5 billion-year-old gneiss, was formed. Much of Shetland is made of Dalradian rocks, the squashed and contorted roots of the long vanished Caledonian Mountains, heaved up when America bumped into Europe, 430-500 million years ago.

Associated with this mountain building era are volcanic lavas and granites, while around the edges of Shetland are 380 million year old sandstones, laid down when the Caledonian Mountains eroded away. Out under the sea to the west and east lie basins of younger sediments where oil and gas deposits began to collect 50 million years ago, as America finally headed west again.

One of the most fascinating sites is in Unst, where the floor of the ancient Iapetus Ocean was thrust up over a fragment of the American continent, to form serpentine rock and rare minerals.

With a history of such violent earth movements, it’s not surprising that Shetland is rich in minerals created by intense heat and pressure, including semi-precious stones, tiny bits of gold, and copper and haematite ores that were formerly mined commercially.

WALKING

Shetland is among the best walking country in Europe. The combination of spectacular coastal scenery, heathery hills, wildlife, geology and historic sites is unsurpassed.

There’s so much to see, whether you’re strolling round the old town of Lerwick or undertaking a major hike to the ‘Lang Ayre’ at the back of Ronas Hill.

You can find trained guides, specialising in birds, seals, otters, geology, botany and local history, leading various walks in many parts of Shetland almost every day in summer. This is an excellent way to get to know the islands in knowledgeable and cheerful company.

Several tour companies offer packages for walkers. Shetland Field Studies Group also welcomes visitors on guided walks from April to October.

There’s a strong tradition of free, but responsible, access to land in Shetland and walking around the coast is very much part of island life, you’ll find most islanders friendly and accommodating if you observe the Country Code and behave with respect for the wildlife, the people and their the livestock.

CYCLING

Shetland has 1044km (650 miles) of roads, including 460km (258) of rough tracks. As you explore, the countryside can change in minutes from bleak heather moors to lush grazing land, from stark volcanic cliffs, swarming with seabirds, to valleys fragrant with wild flowers.

Road surfaces are generally very good and the low volume of traffic, even on the main roads, makes cycling a pleasure. There are many miles of single-track roads with regular passing places in the rural areas.

The size of the islands is such that a cycle touring holiday, covering between 30 and 50km a day (approximately 20-30 miles) is an easy target. Touring cyclists can book ahead at hotels, guesthouses and B&Bs. An alternative is a night stop at a camping böd, where you’ll find low cost camping accommodation in a renovated historic building. Böds are dotted conveniently around the islands.

Sensible all-weather equipment is, of course, a must but when the sun does come out you may well need sun cream because it can be surprisingly intense, even this far north.

Shetland can be a challenge on a bike: it’s hilly and also breezy, so on a circular route you may meet a ‘mixture of mercies’ as they say in the islands.

Conversely, a strong following wind can be a considerable advantage.

GOLF

With three golf courses and a driving range Shetland is gaining a reputation as an unusual and interesting destination for the golfer. A special attraction is that, being so far north, in midsummer Shetland golfers can see to tee off at midnight.

The biggest course is Dale, set in a scenic valley just outside the town of Lerwick. Shetland Golf Club is based at this 18-hole course, where visitors are always welcome at the cheerful and well-stocked clubhouse, Dale Golf Course prices are modest compared with mainiand Britain.

A few miles away, visitors are always welcome at the 9-hole Asta golf course in the Tingwall Valley next to Asta Loch. Though much flatter than Dale, Asta also has beautiful views.

Britain’s most northerly golf course is at Skaw on the north coast of the island of Whalsay. Built by enthusiastic island golfers, the Skaw course encircles the island’s airstrip – so play sometimes has to stop while a plane lands. There are panoramic views of the east coast of Shetland and it’s one of the few courses in the world where you may occasionally be distracted by a passing seal or porpoise.

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