PLANTING, GROWING, AND
HARVESTING WATERMELONS
Everyone seems to love juicy watermelon
in the summertime. Native to Africa,
melons need warm temperatures (up to
80°F during the day) and a long growing
season. Here’s how to plant and grow
watermelons in your garden!
Gardeners in colder climates can still
have success in growing watermelon
vines by starting seeds indoors and
choosing short-season varieties. Days to
maturity range from 70 to 90, depending
on the variety.
WHEN TO PLANT WATERMELONS
In cool climates with short growing seasons,
start seeds indoors 2 to 3 weeks before
your last frost date . Plan to transplant
seedlings into the garden about 2 weeks
after that date.
In warmer climates with long growing
seasons, sow seeds directly outdoors 1 to 2
weeks after your last frost date , as long as
the soil temperature has warmed to at least
70°F (21°C). Warmer soil helps
prevent poor germination.
Note: Watermelon seedlings are very tender
and should not be transplanted until all
danger of frost has passed. Watch the local
forecast and err on the side of caution!
CHOOSING AND PREPARING A
PLANTING SITE
Amend soil with aged manure,
seaweed, and/or compost before planting.
Watermelons are heavy feeders. Learn
more about soil amendments and preparing
soil for planting.
Watermelons do best in loamy, somewhat-
sandy, well-drained soil.
Watermelons prefer a soil pH between 6.0
and 7.0 (“slightly acidic”).
Growing the vines in raised rows, known as
hills, ensures good drainage and will hold
the sun’s heat longer. Plan to space the
plants about 2 feet apart in a 5-foot-
wide hill.
If you’re growing in rows, space 6 feet by 6
feet apart.
HOW TO PLANT WATERMELONS
Sow seeds ½ to 1 inch deep outdoors or ¼ to
½ inch deep in seed-starting pots indoors.
Tip: To allow for greater root growth, use
larger pots than you would for most seeds.
Also consider using compostable pots that
can be cut away or planted directly in the
garden, as this will minimize the risk of
damaging seedling roots
during transplanting.
If direct seeding outdoors, sow 4 to 6 seeds
per hill, eventually thinning to 2 to
3 seedlings.
Transplanting Seedlings
Handle seedlings with extreme care when
you transplant. Their roots are very fragile,
so try not to disturb the soil when removing
them from pots.
After transplanting, cover the plants with
row covers to keep pests at bay. Remember
to remove the row covers when you see
both male and female flowers on the vine,
as pollinators will need to access
the flowers.
Find even more tips for planting melons in
your home garden.
HOW TO GROW WATERMELONS
Watering
Watering is very important—from planting
until fruit begins to form. While melon
plants are growing, blooming, and setting
fruit, they need 1 to 2 inches of water
per week.
Keep soil moist, but not waterlogged. Water
at the vine’s base in the morning, and try to
avoid wetting the leaves and avoid
overhead watering. Reduce watering once
fruit are growing. Dry weather produces the
sweetest melon.
Fertilizing
If you choose to fertilize (and many do),
make sure it delivers more nitrogen than
phosphorus and potassium, as this will
encourage leaf and vine growth. However,
after flowering begins, use a fertilizer with
less nitrogen to instead encourage flowers
and fruit. We like to use a seaweed-
based fertilizer.
Flowering and Fruiting
Vines produce male and female flowers
separately on the same plant. They often
begin producing male flowers several
weeks before the females appear. Do not be
concerned if the male flowers fall off. The
female flowers (which have a swollen bulb
at the base) will stay on the vine and
bear fruit.
Blossoms require pollination to set fruit, so
be kind to the bees! Learn how to support
pollinators in your garden .
As fruit is ripening, prevent rotting by
gently lifting it and putting cardboard or
straw between the fruit and the soil.
General Care Tips
Mulching with black plastic around the
plants will serve multiple purposes: it will
warm the soil, hinder weed growth, and
keep developing fruits off the soil.
Pruning generally isn’t necessary for
watermelon plants, but vine productivity
may be improved if you do not allow lateral
(side) vines to grow and stick to the main
vine. When the plant is young, just cut off
the end buds as they form (before the side
shoots become vines). You can also pinch
off some blossoms to focus the energy on
fewer melons (though it’s a challenge to kill
off a potential fruit).
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