Путешествие по Узбекистану. Начало
Наверняка через какое-то время ограничения, которые вынужденно ввели из-за вируса, будут сняты. И мы снова сможем путешествовать. Вот одна из тех стран, где действительно стоит побывать.
В Узбекистан с удовольствием поедут те, кто уже побывал в Италии и Испании. И хочет чего-то экзотического, но поблизости, без виз и недорого. На мой взгляд, наиболее комфортно путешествовать по этой стране весной. Зимой и в России красиво, а летом в Узбекистане слишком жарко. 40-50 градусов — это не предел. При такой температуре вся поездка сведется к перемещениям из машины с кондиционером в комнату отеля с тем же кондиционером.
А весна там очень… "Вкусная". И в прямом и в переносном смысле. Я, кстати, еду поесть. Попробую плов. Самаркандский, бухарский, хивинский, ташкентский. И — самсу! Очень я самсу с бараниной люблю!
Итак, в планах — посещение четырех городов. Каждый из них хоть раз был столицей, кстати. Каждый по-своему интересен, красив и необычен.
Вообще, логично маршрут выстраивать таким образом — Ташкент-Самарканд-Бухара-Хива. Чтобы степень экзотичности, востока изменялась плавно по-нарастающей. Ташкент выглядит очень современно, центр города — это здания из стекла и металла. А Хива — сама древность!
Однако в силу множества обстоятельств, моя поездка сложилась иначе. Я взял билет до Ташкента, оттуда направлюсь в Бухару, затем — Самарканд, ну и на сладкое — Хива.
https://youtu.be/wrT_vDKDM3E
Первый перелет узбекскими авиалиниями. Билеты стоили недешево, 23 тысячи рублей в обе стороны.
До недавнего времени при пересечении узбекской границы требовалось заполнять таможенную декларацию, в которую необходимо было детально вносить всё, что ввозите. Деньги, во всех возможных валютах, технику. В том числе фотоаппараты и мобильные телефоны. Сейчас эту процедуру отменили. Про технику вообще ничего не спрашивают, а ввозить-вывозить, не декларируя, можно до двух тысяч долларов. Спасибо, стало намного приятнее прилетать.
Поменять привезённые доллары на местные сумы можно в обменниках прямо в аэропорту.
Аэропорт в Ташкенте находится в черте города. Более того, довольно близко к центру. Поэтому добраться до любой точки не составит труда. Даже если хотите — общественным транспортом. Автобусом, например. Но удобнее всего, конечно такси. И таксисты — это первые радостно встречающие люди, которых вы увидите на выходе из аэропорта. Цены у них завышены. Иногда в разы. Для того, чтобы не переплачивать, можно выйти с территории аэропорта и поймать попутку. Либо — вызвать такси с помощью приложения в телефоне.
Из Ташкента я планировал выехать в Бухару на скоростном поезде Афросиаб, но оказалось, что билеты на него взять «день в день» невозможно. Всё было распродано. Пришлось ехать на обычном поезде.
Обязательная процедура — после досмотра вам должны на обороте билета поставить штамп о том, что вы этот самый досмотр прошли. Иначе могут не пустить в поезд…
Время в пути — 8 с половиной часов. Прилично, но поезд ночной. Ложишься спать, просыпаешься — ты уже в Бухаре.
Продолжение следует!
Desires come true here
Unusual, interesting, amazing Uzbekistan never ceases to delight the traveler.
If you have a cherished desire, and you are in Bukhara, be sure to come to the grave of Sheikh Bahauddin Naqshbandi.
A holy place - a three-time visit is equivalent to a Hajj to Mecca.
And this tree behind the fence according to the legend is the staff of the Naqshbandi.
- When Naqshbandi returned from Mecca, he thrust a stave into the ground, and, according to the legend, a tree started to bloom.
- Now to make a wish come true, you have to go around this stave counterclockwise three times.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4gjV6KfJfdw
- Which direction should I go?
- Counterclockwise, you are going the right way.
- The object of daily pilgrimage.
- A huge number of people come here from different parts of Uzbekistan and other countries.
- Here you can touch it.
- And many do so - here is polished surface.
- This tree used to be a little further back that way.
- The tree was here.
- Crowds of people came, went three times and under the log.
- It was recently removed from here.
- Because it is believed that the only place, where you're allowed to walk around is Kaaba in Mecca.
The wish is made, it's time to say goodbye to Bukhara.
We have a very busy program and, unfortunately, won't be able to stay any longer in this wonderful city.
Although I would love to.
Returning to the hotel to pick up bags, I find out how they used to knock on doors in Bukhara.
The women pounded the ring, the men - beater.
On the men's knock the owner came out - maybe it's a threat, you never know.
And on the women's know - the housewife could came out.
Before leaving, in order to keep some more warmth of Bukhara with me, I buy a local flatbread.
- There is a fire station not far away from Lyab-i Hauz in the ancient town.
- Bukhara flatbread is sold nearby.
- Hello!
- Fresh?
- Of corse, they are hot.
I bought a flat cake called "Patyr Katlama", it tastes different than the usual one.
When they make this flat bread, they use a tail fat - you can feel it.
Very hearty meal!
On city suburb I meet an unusual couple on the market.
- Is this a parrot, or is this a canary?
- A parrot, his name is Misha.
- Can he read the cards?
- Misha sit here! Misha, come here!
- You will find happiness and wealth.
Your life is changing for the better - 2 paths.
One path goes through the parts...
And another one goes through your work.
2 paths - 2 wishes.
Well, let's go!
The next destination is Samarkand.
And I decided to make a detour and enjoy the exotic.
I will stay overnight in a Yurt camp, which is located in the desert near the border with Kazakhstan.
On the way, we will look at the rock, which has preserved petroglyphs,
Meet the hordes of Red List-turtles, we will see the ruins of the fortress of Alexander the Great.
It will be very interesting!
Dead city
The next destination is the city of the dead.
The official name is "Chor-Bakr", the four "Bakrs". The prefix "Bakr" to the name added the theologians.
The necropolis appeared in 10th century, when four priests were buried here.
Then it became a tradition.
The place is sacred - pilgrims often come here.
For a long time, the living coexisted with the dead,
here was the kishlak (a village) the "Sumitan".
It was resettled after numerous cases, when the kids dug up the graves and played with bones.
At the entrance, or at the exit of the complex - depends on the point of view - is a washroom. I decided to clarify some points with my wonderful guide Larisa.
- Do them come extra before the prayer?
- Yes, of course. You have to wash hands up to elbow, wash your face, touch your hair with wet hands,
wash your feet up to the knees.
- You have also wash your nose and throat.
- Before or after?
- Before you come in.
When I first arrived in Bukhara, I asked the taxi driver
"Is there something tasty to eat here?"
- Shashlik is very tasty here, the tandoor. You know tandoor?
- Samsa?
- No, meat, which is prepared in tandoor (oven).
- Meat in tandoor?! What's that?
- I know that in the tandoor you can cook flatbread and samsa.
- You can also cook meat in there.
- "Chor-Bakr" is also prepared in there.
- Near the near the necropolis is a restaurant, which is also called "Chor-Bakr".
Here is this restaurant. Here is this meat.
It is really very tasty and, as always in Bukhara, not expensive - $3.
I spent a lot of money in the cafe on "Lyab-i Hauz".
But I ordered the most expensive dishes there and still had to pay $34 - for three persons.
On the road again!!! It will be even more interesting further!
Treasures of the last Emir of Bukhara and the legend of the Ark fortress
We continue to wander through ancient Bukhara (Uzbekistan).
"Ark" is one of the oldest objects in Bukhara.
There was a legend that the fortress was built by Siyavash - the hero of folk epics.
He fell in love with Khan's daughter. Afrosiyab, so was the name of Khan, did not want his child to marry Siyavash. The court astrologers advised against it.
Afrosiyab demands to build a palace on the land the size of a bull's skin.
Siyavash did not lose his head, he cut the skin in thin strips and tied to make a rope. With the rope he girdled the area of the fortress. Now it is almost 4 hectares. What a long skin!
Ark is similar to Kremlin. The construction was build for protection against raids.
High, thick walls saved emirs, ministers, court staff - almost 3000 people.
The fortress couldn't protect Bukhara only twice. During the invasion of Genghis Khan and the Bolsheviks.
Then the red commander Frunze ordered to bomb the Ark from the airplane.
The last Emir of Bukhara was forced to flee. Perhaps part of the fortress was destroyed because of him. According to one version, he ordered to blow up the Ark.
"If I can't have it, no one can!"
They say he took all the valuables with him.
But the caravan of gold, silver and diamonds didn't manage to get to Afghanistan - the guards killed each other. One of them left and hid this wealth in one of the caves in the Gissar mountains.
Reminds me of the story about Ali-Baba.
Now "Po-i-Kalyan"!
This is the name of the central architectural ensemble of Bukhara.
It consists of a minaret, mosque and madrasa.
If you have been to Samarkand, you know that heart of the city is Registan.
But such public squares exist in other cities, including Bukhara.
On the square is a tall minaret Kalyan.
It was used in different situations - to call for prayer, to punish the criminals, and as a beacon.
Caravans at night were guided by its light. By the way, some more details about the last Emir.
In Bukhara he had a summer residence, at the entrance to which you will meet peacocks, the descendants of those that pleased the eye of the Bukhara Khan.
- Oh, it hurts! I mean, not painful, but it's sensitive!
The palace was designed by Russian architect Aleksey Benua.
The Emir was a friend of Emperor Nicholas II. Among his gifts is this fridge. Ice was on top.
Cold water flowed down the sides of the copper tubes It cooled everything inside.
For me personally is a mystery, where at that time in Bukhara it was possible to get ice.
I think it's time for a snack. Let's try an unusual samsa! Here you can find samsa, which is very different from others, that are served in Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara. For the first time I see such samsa.
It is called "Alazka" - the name of the area, which is located in the Bukhara region.
This is what it looks like. The shape is different and the dough is not puff.
It costs $0,3. The main difference is... that inside this samsa is a piece of tomato.
What can you buy at a real oriental bazaar? And why can't you take it away?
We will continue our walk through one of the most beautiful cities of Uzbekistan - Bukhara. Last time we started looking at interesting goods at the local bazaar.
This is a tool for perforation of the pellets, bronze inkwell for callygraphy.
- Calligraphy is still being taught in Madrasa.
Of course you can find all kinds of Asian-caps, so-called "Tubeteikas".
Some of them are simple, some - very unusual, for example this looks more like a baseball cap.
A lot of Souvenirs are made in the form of funny, colourful "grandpas".
This is probably the best gift for your colleagues and friends.
But if you are not afraid to break something on your way home, you can buy Bukhara plates,
tea sets and ancient jugs.
Regarding the antiquities I remind you -
it is prohibited to take from Uzbekistan anything, that is older than 50 years.
Would be very disappointing to spend to money and the customs service won't let you through.
At the 3rd dome in front of all tourists weavers create their own artworks of cotton and silk.
You can come to them, film the whole process and ask any questions.
Here is also a working atelier.
You can choose any cloth - for example with a romantic image, reflection of the clouds in the water,
then you're being measured, and the next day you can pick up finished dress.
Of course the domes in Bukhara crown not only the market rows.
Another symbol of the city is the famous mosque "Chor Minor".
Four minarets, in the yard is a preserved "Hauz".
And on the roof we caught a wedding photoshoot.
10 meters away, right at the "Chor Minor", is a mini-market with old and ancient goods.
Thousands of badges and medals cost from 1000 soum to 100 dollars.
Of course there're no price tags.
Seller offers the price as soon as he evaluates the buyer and his wealthiness.
Feel free to bargain!
Well, it is enough to delight the eye - it's time to eat.
Finally, I will taste real Bukhara pilaf.
For the feast I have chosen the cafe "Chinar".
I must say it is a touristic place, but there are only touristic places in Bukhara.
About the evaluation of pilaf, many people - many opinions.
Each of the master, who cooks this wonderful dish, is admired and criticized as well.
There is no perfect pilaf.
Be sure to find someone, who will say that in a "chaikhana" nearby pilaf is better.
We had a dinner in this cafe and with absolute responsibility say: "Pilaf
is amazing here".
- What is the difference between Bukhara-pilaf and any other pilaf?
- We don't stir the pilaf, everything is layered.
- At first comes meat (lamb), then carrot, raisins, "nat" (or "nut" - yellow chickpeas) and rice.
- Which pilaf is more tasty?
- Well, I think, Bukhara pilaf tastes better.
And not expensive at all.
Later in this trip in some places was much more expensive, but not so tasty.
And this is just the beginning of a trip through the old Bukhara.
It will be much more interesting!
What is the difference between scissors for men and women? Walk through the market in Bukhara
Now we're making a stop on our way to the market to have look at the ancient Magok-i-Attari Mosque, which literally has been dug up.
The Mosque was built in the 12th century, originally being a zoroastrian temple.
It gradually sank into the ground and overgrew with cultural layers.
From the time of zoroastrianism remained symbols on the walls.
The two triangles symbolise good and evil and between them is the man.
- And another fact - the triangles reflect the main principle of this religion:
good words, good thoughts and good deeds.
In general It is incredibly difficult to conduct excavations in Bukhara.
The city remained at the same place, where it was originally founded.
It would be impossible to demolish the houses on demand of archeologists.
But still some excavations are taking place.
This is a part of the ancient Bukhara.
The scientists found there a lot of coins.
Now they are stored in the numismatic section in museum.
Once here was a market.
Here were also the bathhouses. There are quite a lot of them in the city, this one has been working since the 16th century.
Back to the market-domes.
The first on the way appears dome called "Menjal". The merchants could exchange any currency here.
Also here stood usurers. Did you know that it is forbidden for Muslims to lend money?
That's why this was done by visitors.
Bukhara has always been a multinational city, the intersection of trade routes after all.
Persians, Turks, Arabs, even Jews lived here. Yes, Bukhara Jews exist.
Nowadays there are about 70 of them left the city.
They aren't allowed to move away - they can't leave the Holy book of Torah.
It was brought here in ancient times and now according to the Uzbek laws it is prohibited to take out of the country items, which are older than 50 years.
Walking along the shopping market rows is another adventure.
Mixture of bright colours, exotic for us goods and expressive sellers.
On our way to the to the third dome we went to the blacksmith's shop, which was held in the the sixth generation.
- Do you know for whom I made this knife? For your husband.
- Why? So you don't nag him.
The knives are sold with different engravings. You can also order personalized inscription.
And girls will like scissors - in the form of a stork, but why only girls?
Originally male masters embroidered clothes with gold threads and used such scissors.
- And then gradually women began to do this work.
- In order not to mix up the tools - this one is made for men and this one - for women.
- Women weren't allowed to touch men's scissors.
- Yes!
- It was believed, that if a woman touches a gold thread, it will darken.
Since then in the homes of Bukhara have been existing two types of scissors.
The stork with a crest was used by men, and the stork without a crest - by women.
Where was drinking water stored in Bukhara?
So, we are in Bukhara!
Bukhara is like three different cities - the new one, the old one, and the ancient one.
The new city will be less interesting for tourists, who came here for the Eastern exotic.
Modern houses, roads and shops like anywhere else.
That's why I have chosen a hotel in old Bukhara with an authentic courtyard.
This a typical Bukhara-hotel with a typical inner Bukhara-courtyard and with very pleasant owners.
- Why is this Hotel called "Sukhrob Borzu"?
- "Sukhrob" is a husband, "Borzu" is a son.
- How long do you own this hotel?
- 20 years.
- 20 years?!
An important detail.
All the tourists, who come to Uzbekistan, are obliged to register at the local police station.
If you rent room in a hotel - you automatically receive registration and don't have to go anywhere.
But if you stay by your friends or rent an apartment on "Airbnb". Make sure you discuss the registration issue. Otherwise, if you leave the country, you will have some serious problems.
After check-in I asked the owners to find me a guide.
Larisa is a professional guide of the highest rank. She travels with the groups all over the country, but I needed the information only about Bukhara and its surroundings.
It is impossible to visit all the sights in one day, so we agreed on two days - 30 dollars per each. We also rented a taxi for these two days - the total price was $ 18.
Perhaps it might be more convenient for single travellers to rent a bicycle. 1$.
A minute away from the hotel is the heart of old Bukhara - "Lyab-i Hauz".
It is a former market square, an architectural ensemble and a pond.
Many are misled by the word "Hauz", which has nothing to do with English “house”.
"Hauz" does not mean "a building".
It is a Persian word, which means "a pond", a kind of water pool, but not for swimming.
It was used as a storage of drinking water. In hot climate this was the real source of life, around which life was thriving. Nowadays it's nice to sit here by the water in the heat of the day and in the cool of the evening.
Around the pond is located an old Madrasa.
If you're not for the first time in the East you might know, that Madrasa is a religious educational institution. There are quite a lot of them in any Uzbek city.
Your guide for sure will tell some details about them, that cannot be found in Wikipedia.
But I will not focus your attention on this on this.
And this monument appeared recently, local citizens and tourists love taking pictures with it.
Children do it most of all.
This is Hodja Nasreddin with his beloved donkey, a fabulous Bukhar hero - symbol of the city.
As well as the domes. The markets in the East are located within the buildings.
Neither sellers nor buyers want to languish in the sun.
About them we will talk later.
Why go to the amazing Uzbekistan?
To Uzbekistan would love to go those, who have already visited Italy and Spain,
and want something exotic, but, nearby, without Visa and not expensive.
In my opinion, it is most convenient to travel in this country in the spring.
In winter Russia is also beautiful, and in summer in Uzbekistan is too hot.
40 - 50 °C are not the limit.
At this temperature the whole trip will be reduced to moving from air-conditioned car to hotel room, which is also with air-conditioning.
Besides, the spring there is very delicious, literally and figuratively.
By the way, I going there to eat -
I want to taste pilaf in Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva, Tashkent and samsa.
I love samsa with lamb very much.
So, the plan is to visit 4 cities.
Each of them at least once was the capital and each of them is interesting, beautiful and unusual in its own way.
Generally speaking, it is logical to build such route:
Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva,
so that the degree of exoticism of the East would change progressively.
Tashkent looks very modern. The city center is built of glass and metal,
and Khiva, on the contrary, is very ancient.
But because of many circumstances my trip went different.
I bought a ticket to Tashkent, from there
I will go to Bukhara,
then to Samarkand
and finally to Khiva.
Until recently, when you were crossing the Uzbek border, you had to fill in
he customs Declaration, in which it was necessary to specify in detail everything, you import.
All the money in all possible currencies, electronic devices including cameras
and mobile phones.
Now this procedure does not exist anymore, you can take any electronic devices with you and it is allowed to import and export without declaring up to 2 thousand dollars.
Thank you - it is much more pleasant to travel now!
The airport in Tashkent is located within the city limits and is quite close to the center.
So you can easily get to any place in the city even by using the public transport - bus, for example.
But the most convenient way, of course, is to take a taxi.
Coming out of the airport in the first place you will see taxi drivers, who are happily greeting you. Their prices are several times higher.
In order not to pay too much as soon as you get out of the airport you can catch a cab. You can also call the "Yandex Taxi" (similar to "Uber") or use similar service.
My plan was to go from Tashkent to Bukhara
by a high speed train "Afrosiyob".
It turned out that it was impossible to buy the tickets at the of the ride.
Everything was sold out.
So I had to take the usual train. The place in a compartment cost $ 13.
I'll specify all the prices in three currencies.
After screening of passengers you will be put a stamp on the back of the ticket
as a proof that you passed this procedure.
Otherwise, you may not be allowed to board the train. The whole ride lasts 8 and a half hours. It is decent, but it is a night train.
Which means, that you can go to sleep, wake up and you are already in Bukhara.
In the next part you will learn, that the "Lyabi-Hauz",
you will see an ancient mosque,
you will learn why women weren't allowed to
touch the men's scissors.
And, of course, we'll taste the Bukhara pilaf.
Hey! Articles about magical Uzbekistan will appear here soon. This is a country that used to be part of the USSR. I usually write in Russian, so the English translation may not be entirely accurate. I apologize in advance! I still hope you enjoy it. Because the trip around Uzbekistan was really interesting!
@Goroda
