Thirty-five minutes past six in the morning. I am standing in front of the gate of the land port of Banglabandha, the northernmost border of the country. It's too cold. Absolutely shaking bones. Nature is covered with a sheet of fog. Can't see far in front due to fog. After traveling for about 13 hours in a row, the body is not giving up, but nature is pulling closer like the nocturnal sea.
In the distance, I saw a winding methopath along the Indian border. Someone is going to work this winter morning by bicycle or by walking.
I looked around and saw all the members of my group standing in front of a huge zero or 'zero' established as the last border of Banglabandha and Bangladesh. Just to his right is the Indian border gate. Finally, we stood on No Man's Land, the northernmost border of Bangladesh.
Yes, I came from Panchagarh, the northernmost district of the country famous for its Himalayan daughter. Our journey from Dhaka started at 5:30 pm on 14th December and ended at around 6:30 am on 15th December. I spent the whole day visiting various places of interest in Panchagarh and went to stay at RDRS Guest House in Thakurgaon. That evening I visited Thakurgaon district town. I got up in the morning from night and left for Dinajpur. After visiting Thakurgaon in less time, he returned to Dhaka by bus from the bus stand. In the first part of the two episodes of this whole travelogue, today is the journey to Panchagarh.
Plan
One day at the end of November. Regular hangouts of 3/4 people became 9/10 people. There was talk of going around in words. Since almost everyone is engaged in different professions, I planned a three-day and two-night tour, combining the two days before Victory Day in December. But where to go? Everyone put this responsibility on my shoulders. After 2/3 days I informed everyone that the last border of the northern part of the country can be Banglabandha. Needless to say, I saw some pictures of Kazi & Kazi Tea State in Panchagarh in some Facebook groups. Originally the beauty of the Tea State and during this time one can see Kanchenjunga from Panchagarh. So this district was on the list of favorites. Whatever the thought, we are going to Panchagarh, the famous Himalayan girl.
Although at first 10 people agreed to go on the tour, it gradually went down to six. I wanted to enjoy the longest train journey in Bangladesh but I didn't get any train ticket even 8 days before the scheduled time. Since Friday and Saturday were public holidays before December 16, all the workers were returning to their families. When I went to look for the ticket, I found out that only one bus of Hanif and Shyamoli Paribahan goes to Banglabandha. Our plan was to come to Panchagarh from Banglabandha and from there to Thakurgaon Guest House in the afternoon.
The journey begins
On December 14, at 4:30 pm, everyone came to the meeting place and met. Then we set off for our bus counter in Shyamoli. Leaving the main bus is about half an hour late. It is a matter of so far and so much time. So we thought, at least the bus seats would be comfortable. But our hopes are shattered. Anyway, we stopped at the Food Village in Sherpur for a temporary break as soon as we had a seat. At the end of the break, our bus driver Sohail Bhai seems to have regained his life. He drove so slowly on the road, but as soon as he got out of the Food Village, he started driving at the highest speed. I can't tell when I fell asleep. However, when I opened my eyes, I first removed the window curtain and saw that an orange light was on a short distance from the road. I realized that after crossing Panchagarh, we are now near Tetulia.
The bus stopped at Tentulia bus stand after five o'clock. Our bus driver Sohail Bhai entertained us at the famous food hotel 'Nurjahan' in Tentulia. Needless to say, there was something special written on our tickets, for which we received a little more respect than ordinary passengers. From there the driver was transferred and Delwar Bhai took us to Banglabandha and he himself explained to me how to get around Panchagarh in a short time and at low cost.
History and heritage of Panchagarh district
Although there is no exact date of human settlement in Panchagarh district; A number of things are known through history. Panchagarh was a city of the ancient city of Pundra, which was most probably called Panchanagari. However, the most common view is that it is called Panchagarh because of its five average positions. The averages are Vitargarh, Mirgarh, Hossaingarh, Rajnagar and Devengarh.
Panchagarh is one of the oldest cities in Bangladesh. History says that in the past as well as now, this area was a border area. The city was under the control of not only the Pundra Empire but also the Gupta, Pala, Sen and Muslim rulers. It is also known that Ikhtiyar Uddin Muhammad bin Khalji had crossed this town during the invasion of Tibet.
After partition in 1947, Panchagarh Thana was included in Thakurgaon subdivision of Dinajpur district. On January 1, 1980, Thakurgaon subdivision was renamed as Panchagarh subdivision. Subsequently, on 1st February 1984, Panchagarh district was formed with five police stations of Panchagarh subdivision, Tentulia, Panchagarh Sadar, Otwari, Boda and Debiganj.
Sightseeing
Banglabandha Zero Point
When we reached Banglabandha, it was more than seven in the morning. There was no one in the area at that moment except for the six of us. Not even a border guard. In front of Banglabandha land port is the end plate of Bangladesh border and from there a few yards ahead is the zero point of Banglabandha. As we got closer we saw two guards coming by bike from behind. Knowing the identity, he sincerely informed that their superiors have not come yet. No problem staying here after they come, but can't stay now. Many times it did not help, because he is just obeying his orders.
What else to do, I took a few pictures of Zero and India's border gate with zoom lens from a distance and went in front of Banglabandha land port to get on the bus again. However, for your convenience, we left Banglabandha very early in the morning, due to which we missed, but there is no more trouble from eight or nine o'clock. And if you can go in the afternoon, especially after the Asr prayers, then you will see the border guards of the two countries paraded and it is open to everyone. You can also visit Kanchenjunga.
Kazi & Kazi Tea Estate: The only flat land organic tea garden in the country
I drank red tea at a tea shop in front of Banglabandha land port, remembering the sadness of not being able to take selfies or pictures with Zero Point. After tea we took the first bus of the day and went to Tinnu Bazaar. After having breakfast at a local food hotel, I took a battery-powered autorickshaw to Raushanpur. Needless to say, Kazi & Kazi Tea Estate is inside Raushanpur. It is also known as Anandadhara by the locals. This is a place where you have to cross a detour of several kilometers from the Sadar through the village. If you want to go here to Tinnu Bazaar or wherever you go, it is wise to take a reserve auto. Even if you walk a few kilometers, you will not find anything. And since it is a very winding road, it is very difficult to remember at once.
As I said before, we chose a time when people were returning home, as well as many more groups like us going out to visit different districts. As soon as I got down in front of the gate of T Estate, I saw two groups standing to enter. If you want to enter here, you need a reference or permission. Permission has to be taken from Dhaka, at least a good reference, as it is the office of the tea estate and the owner's private bungalow. So even if you pay the doorman, you can't get in if you want. However, if you sincerely explain, then if there is no crowd, just let them enter. Since I was responsible for all the spots of the tour, I called the doorman brother and introduced myself. "There are a lot of people inside," he said. Everyone is crowded on holiday. He told me to go around ten. Until then, he asked me to visit the tea garden.
I went to the tea garden and took pictures and came a little after ten o'clock and saw more people there. And everyone is standing with references, and we haven't brought any references. So I was worried that like Zero, it might have to be dropped. But the doorman brother called me and gave me his sir's number. I introduced myself by phone and handed a visiting card to the doorman brother to show him. After a while the doorman brother came and took us inside.
For the time being, a line is spinning in my head to convey in one line what I have seen inside, when nature and modernity merge, a primitive and unadulterated natural environment is created. You can really understand why I said this as soon as you get inside. One of the hallmarks of what people can do in luxury is the whole space of this private bungalow and office in Kazi & Kazi Tea Estate.
As soon as you enter through the beautiful gate, a dark entrance in the shade of herbs is waiting for you on the right hand side. When you come to the end of that path lost in the greenery all around, some of the most beautiful cottages built in modern style will catch your eye. There is also a lake inside, a few cottages next to it and a bridge in the middle of the lake to cross the beautiful resting place.
From bridges to walkways, lakes, restrooms, bungalows, wooden cottages, you will find a clear impression of nobility and aesthetics. You will see some horses in the open field eating grass. Don't forget to go ahead, because these horses have a bad habit of biting. Meena will go to the market when she leaves. There you will find organic tea-leaves and organic sweets.
I can't say how much time has passed since I got lost in this beauty. It should be kept as a matter of time, because we have yet to see the whole of Panchagarh. So I came out without delay thanking the doorman brother. But the thing we did like a fool is, we left our auto. So I got an auto again with the help of that doorman brother. With that I went to Tinnu Bazar.
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