The biggest wave I caught and managed to stay on my feet. Was at the #BlowHole, Main Beach, #MountMaunganui. My board was a 9’1” thruster. Hard to catch waves but very fast and could turn on a dime. Spent a lot of time paddling. The Blow Hole worked on all swells but particularly the larger #Pacific swells. It was a #PointBreak with a strong rip that would suck you out the back to the line-up. Important in large swells. Was bobbing around in the line-up and saw my wave coming in at speed. Starting paddling and before I knew what happened I was standing up. The board was skimming down the face. I looked down and saw one of the top local #longboarders give the double thumbs up. Time stood still. Took for ever to reach the bottom of the wall of water. Then it was a couple of cutbacks and was standing on the beach. That moment is burned into my DNA. image taken from top of Mount Mauganui the Blow Hole breaks along the rocks of Motiriki (Leisure Island)
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